Upcycle Lamp Shades to Create Flower Pots!
To add more detail, we hot-glued lengths of nylon clothes line around the rims. This will give the cement more to cling to, as well.
We added three rows on the wide end, and two on the narrow.
We used RapidSet CementAll® for the coating, about ten cups per shade. We wear masks when working with dry cement, and gloves when working with wet.
Lamp shades come with all types of fitters to connect to lamps. You’ll want to remove or incorporate your fitter into your flower pot (or let plant roots grow through them, lol !).
Our fitter, shown above, was great for reinforcing the bottom and even had a place for a drainage hole. The metal ribs on the sides will also strengthen the design.
Note: We placed plastic pens dipped in petroleum jelly in the fitter holes to make room for a drainage holes, before cement is added to the bottom.
RapidSet CementAll hardens quickly. It’s key to have tools and workspace ready before mixing cement. Here are the tools we recommend —
• Dowel or rod for drainage hole
• Lubricant (we used petroleum jelly)
• nylon brushes, 1″ – 2″
• water mister bottle
• dish washing soap (we used Dawn)
• stirring sticks
• disposable gloves
In addition to drop cloths, we also worked on the flat side of a a plastic fridge liner to make sure the bottom of the pot would be smooth and level. (We’ll link fridge liners in the materials section for reference).
Let’s begin! Wet the lamp shade, inside and out, with plain water, then mix a cement slurry.
• 2 cups of water
• 4 drops of dishwashing soap (no more than 1/4 tsp)
• 4 cups cement (or enough to make a sandy paint)
Add the cement gradually to the water and stir. If it begins to harden too soon, stir in a bit more water. Slurry should be as thick as sandy paint.
Using a brush, scoop the slurry and coat the shade inside and out evenly with cement.
Smooth ridges and bumps, work into crevices.
Let shades dry for a few days. The fabric will be stiff, but pliable.
When dry … make cement clay for the inside of the pot.
• 2 cups water
• 1/4 tsp dishwashing soap
• 7-1/3 cups of cement mix
Pour the water in a container first, gradually add the dry mix and stir to a mud consistently. Keep the mix damp with small amounts of water while working.
Wet the inside of the shade with plain water. Place a lubricated pen, dowel, or rod to form a drainage hole in the fitter if you have one, then add cement to the bottom of the shade.
Press the cement into place and begin to work up the sides. As you reach the top, form a rim that overlaps the edge of the shade.
Spray the cement mud with water and use a wet brush to smooth the surface.
Forming the inside of the pot and smoothing the surface took about an hour.
Thin spots can be thickened by adding small amounts of the cement clay …
… and smoothing them with a circular motion.
Let the pots dry for a few days, then tint and seal as you like. We used watered-down acrylic paint and a toothbrush.
Adding cotton appliqués and sealing them with paint was easy! Flexible onlays will also work. We made a previous video explaining more about using cotton doilies to embellish concrete outdoors. Check it out here. (Our lace birdbath still looks great, after many years).
Our longer video explains further how to seal and tint cement, concrete, and terra cotta with linseed oil. We added a bit of color with sidewalk and artist’s chalk at the same time. The link is at the top of this post.
Our lamp shade flower pots have been outside, rain and shine, for many weeks without fail … but, we’ll bring them inside for winter and seal them again after a few years. Any good sealer will work — water, or oil-based.
We think this project deserves a repeat performance in our garden … bottomless-pots for blueberries or boxwood. Topiary pots for indoors. Why not!
