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How to Paint the Bathroom Sink, $100 Room Makeover

So, I used 80 grit, followed by 140 grit. I used a sanding sponge first, then wrapped the other sandpaper around the sponge. The sponge actually worked out well because I could squeeze into the curved spots and around the faucets. I could tell the sanding job was thorough, because the once shiny surface looked dull. There was a slight roughness when I slid my hand over the surface. That way, I could tell which areas needed a little more sanding.

After sanding, I rinsed out the sink and removed the faucet knobs so the water wouldn’t accidentally get turned on. The directions say to let it dry at least 90 minutes before painting, so I came back to it later. Any residual water could cause issues with the paint adhering well.

Step 3. Prep the Space

After the sink was thoroughly dry, I taped the faucet, handles, drain, and overflow hole with painters tape. It is super important to tape only the metal parts and not over top of the sink. It would be better to get a tiny bit of paint on the metal drain, then to have the paint not completely cover and seal to the very edge.

Then, I set up the fan in the hall across from the screen door for ventilation. I had it blowing toward the screen door, so it was pulling air out of the bathroom. Definitely didn’t want to blow dust on my paint job.

Step 4: (Finally) Time to Paint the Bathroom Sink!

Next, mix the paint. If you are doing a large project like a tub, you will probably use all of the paint. So, you can mix the small Part A can directly into the larger Part B can.

Or, you can mix the parts in a ratio of 1 to 4. I used a small plastic measuring cup to mix about one cup of Part B with a quarter cup part A. This looked to be about a third of the can. I just mixed it in a disposable container. Let me warn you…even with proper ventilation, this stuff STINKS! If I use this again in the larger upstairs bathroom, i will definitely use a respirator.

After all that, we can finally paint! I used a high density foam roller to apply the paint to the sink. The paint felt very thin, but it went on smooth with great coverage.

One thing about the roller: after the roller is in the paint awhile, like with the second coat, you have to watch for tiny pieces of sponge getting into your smooth perfect finish. I would use a new roller with each coat if I was doing this project again.

Here is the sink after the first coat.

It looks almost completely white in the photo, but you could definitely still see some yellow tint showing through. As per the directions on the can, I did a second coat about 90 minutes later around 10 pm…and went to bed.

The next morning, I saw that it would need a third coat just to cover a few shadows of the old yellow. I sat down on the toilet to look at it closer, and saw DRIPS! Look under the faucet in this photo, and you will see them too.That’s what happens when you rush something right before bed.

On the bright side, I can now share how to go about fixing drips if this happens to you! Since I needed a third coat anyway, I decided to sand down the drips before mixing up the final coat of paint. The paint dried to a hard enamel even after less than 24 hours, so sanding was no problem. With a little elbow grease, it was smooth again.

I mixed the third coat of paint and applied it, this time with a brush. I didn’t have another foam roller on hand, and the can has instructions for both. Even with the slight disintegration issues, the roller was the best by far. This paint is supposed to be self leveling, but I was still battling brush marks using a paint brush.

Here it is after the final coat.

We put together two small scrap pieces of butcher block to make a counter top underneath and I added a simple sink skirt by hemming an old curtain.