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DIY Wood Herringbone Counters

I used wood glue and clamps to attach the side/edge pieces.

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Next I added the interior pieces. Since there wasn’t a good way to clamp them down, I used 20 pound kettle bells and other weights from around the house to hold the pieces down. You could also nail the wood blocks into the plywood if desired.

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After everything was set (around 2 hours later), I added 1″ x 3″ trim along the sides, filled the gaps with wood filler and sanded.

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To achieve the final color, I began by staining the wood black walnut….

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Then I sanded it off. This step, for me, was vital because it allowed the stain to soak into the grain – giving the wood depth (If it were up to me, I would have probably just stopped here but the hubs hated it).

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Next I created a white/gray wash. I mixed 1 part Snowbound (SW) with 1 part Classic French Gray (SW) and 2 parts water. I brushed the mixture on with a foam brush.

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Next I brushed on a coat of ebony stain.

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I immediately wiped it off with mineral spirits. It took a couple of pours of mineral spirits to get to the final color, but we loved it in the end. And yes, I actually poured the mineral spirits on the counters and wiped it off.

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After getting the finish the way I wanted it, I added Watco Lacquer. I won’t say this was an easy project – but only because my island has a lot of angles. If you are lucky enough to have a straight island, you could do this project in a weekend.

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The final product. The cost for this project has a lot of variables. I went with 2 inch thick wood so it cost a lot more than using standard 1 inch thick wood. I also used white oak instead of red oak (which is a bit more expensive). I had the mill plane and joint the wood so allI had to do was cut it to length. The entire kitchen was around $1200. The island was roughly half of that.